Lolo National Forest

August 26th, 2010

Have been in Lola National Forest for most of the past few weeks. Highway 12 goes up to Lolo Pass, where you enter Idaho and the Clearwater National Forest. In Idaho it’s called the Northwest Passage Scenic Byway. This is the route Lewis and Clark, and Indians long before them, used.

Above, two gray jays. The first ones I’ve ever seen. They are very elusive and were in my campsite area only a few minutes.

Highway 12 follows along a number or streams and rivers. I saw lots of  stellar jays while driving, but only a few in my campground.

A kestral in farmland in the town of Lolo.

A blue-grouse (I think) seen along a forest service road.

A red-breasted nuthatch (top) and a red crossbill (lower).

A red squirrel that buries nuts that bears often dig up. It, like many of the birds, is not interested in handouts from humans. They generally run and jump quickly away from you.

There were a huge number of these moths (?) flying around one campground for a few days.

Above, an adult and fledgling yellow-rumped warblers. They were seen near Big Sky in the Gallatin National Forest.

Made one quick trip to Spokane, Washington, to get my trailer serviced. Was surprised to see a pair of marmots in the industrial area.

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Beartooth Scenic Highway, Oh My!

August 10th, 2010

Drove through Yellowstone National Park to get to Cooke City and a National Forest Service campground in order to drive the Beartooth Scenic Highway (US Highway 212). It is an unbelievably beautiful drive. I kept saying “wow” at every turn.

Above, pictures of the summit, at close to 11,000 feet.

The above picture is a view from the road around 25 miles from Cooke City. All the time I was there, it was clear and nice in the mornings, but in the afternoon a thunderstorm would pass through. The storm would pass after a few hours, only to have another one come through in the late afternoon.

Large hail I encountered on my first drive on the highway. Not tennis ball size, but large enough that at first I thought rocks were hitting my windshield. Couldn’t figure out where they were coming from, as no other cars were around. Pulled to the side of the road and waited for the hail to stop. Felt sorry for all the motorcyclists on the road. It seems to be a favorite road of theirs and they had to ride in a lot of bad weather.

Beartooth Lake

The road on the “Cooke City side” as it starts to climb to the summit.

The road on the Red Lodge side of the summit.

I would not want to be driving on the Red Lodge side during an earthquake. There is a lot of loose dirt and rocks.

A marmot seen when I pulled over to take some pictures.

The original campground I had planned to stay at was closed at the end of July because of increased bear activity. The one I stayed at stopped allowing tent camping because of a bear sighting.

Above are marks on a tree at my campsite where a bear had torn off bark to get to the inner bark that they like. Never saw any bears though. Darn!

Had originally planned to stay at the Mammoth Hot Springs campground in Yellowstone. When I got there, however, I found it to be hot and crowded, so I proceeded on to Cooke City.

Above, a picture of the town of Gardner near the entrance to Yellowstone.

The landmark entrance to Yellowstone. Always wanted to get a picture of it.

It was still early when I passed through Lamar Valley in Yellowstone, where there is a large herd of bison. It is the season for male and female bison to co-mingle. The male bison were making growling sounds and sticking out their tongues, while staying close to a female bison. Passed a pair of bison walking down the middle of the road towards Cooke City, out of Yellowstone Park. A ranger said they do not go after them. The female bison had a tracking device around her neck though.

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Earthquake Lake

August 1st, 2010

Spent some time at Earthquake Lake near West Yellowstone. A ~7.5 earthquake that occurred in 1959 killed 28 people when 80 million tons of earth from a mountain collapsed and blocked the Madison River. Water quickly started to rise behind the blockage, creating a 190′ deep, six mile long lake. The lake is slowly leaking back to the Madison River, and in one or two centuries it is expected to be gone. Many dead tree trunks remain in the lake, providing a place for cormorants to perch at night.

Above, the collapsed mountain earth doesn’t look 50-years-old, except for the trees that have grown in the center of the picture. The picture below it is of the Madison River and Highway 287 looking north from the landslide.

An eagle surprised me when it flew by. Must have been perched nearby. The birds around me seemed to react to it. Didn’t get many pictures of birds. The mosquitoes kept me inside. The camp host said it rained all of June, making for a bad mosquito season.

A beautiful black bear also surprised me by running in front of my truck on the campground road. There were also sightings of a female moose and it’s calf, but I missed this.

The rains also brought lots of beautiful wildflowers.

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More from West Yellowstone

July 27th, 2010

Midway Geyser Basin

Found one place that was not super crowded, Fairy Falls trail. Rode my bike on the gravel trail, but really needed a dirt bike. Great bird watching area: bluebirds, northern flickers, and a western tanager (seen above).

Juvenile bald eagle seen next to the Madison River by my campground. Two adult eagles were in a tree just out of camera range.

A lone bison bull was walking along the road two days in a row. They aren’t stupid. It’s a lot easier traveling on the road than through the woods.

Two days in a row, on leaving the park around 8:30 pm, found myself in a huge traffic jam. Just turned the motor off several times. Subsequently found it was two elk bulls with massive antlers in the Madison River that were causing people to stop for pictures.

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West Yellowstone

July 25th, 2010

I’m staying in the West Yellowstone area, just a few miles from the west entrance to Yellowstone National Park. It’s a traffic jam, as usual to visit the park. Traffic comes to a stop when elk are seen. In past visits I saw a male elk with huge antlers just a little way into the park. This visit I have consistently seen female elk with some young ones. Some females have an electronic tracking device around their necks. Yellowstone may want to build a large herd in the area.

So far, I’ve just seen one bison, the bull above, when I came to a traffic jam of people taking pictures. One day in the campground I’m staying at, a ranger came by and said to stay inside if I saw bison. A herd was being tracked nearby by a helicopter. Unfortunately, they didn’t come through the campground.

There has been road work being done between Madison and Norris during all my visits the past few years. This year it’s worse than ever. There is a half hour wait going both ways and the road is really rough.

A lone swan I’ve seen several times near where there is an empty eagles nest.

Firehole Lake area.

Below, the first fireweed I’ve seen in Montana.

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Wisdom, Montana

July 18th, 2010

Stayed at a National Forest campground near the town of Wisdom, Montana. Really liked it as the daytime temp was in the 70′s (being more than 6,000 feet elevation) and it was uncrowded. It is around 200 miles west of Yellowstone and has a lot of the same features, like lots of streams. Not many birds here. Maybe the summer season is to short. Did see a few pairs of sandhill cranes. No shortage of flying insects here though.

Lots of wildflowers. The dirt road I took to take the above picture is along a route that was taken by the Nez Perce Indians and Lewis and Clark.

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West Glacier

July 11th, 2010

Spent the last four days in West Glacier. July is the prime month for Glacier National Park and the crowds have definitely arrived. It is easier to get to, so I imagine it is always more crowded than the St. Mary area. The Apgar campground is in a wooded area and next to a lake. Lots of people here are into boating and rafting (on the rivers).

Ironically, the first day I was here I drove back 30 miles on I-2 to Goat Lick Overlook. Mountain goats gather here to lick the mineral rich rocks. They have made narrow trails on the hills all around the area. If you Google Goat Lick Overlook, the number one item is a pdf document that tells all about it. A special overpass was even built for the goats, so they would not have to cross the highway.

While watching some goats at the overpass, this goat ran out of the bushes past me. Later I saw it rolling in the dirt, maybe trying to get rid of it’s winter coat.

The next thing on my agenda was to drive up the west side of Going-to-the-Sun Road to Logan Pass. It is one of the most scary drives I’ve taken in my truck, without my trailer. It should be a one lane road. Driving in a vehicle smaller than a full-sized pick-up truck would help as well. I just wanted to drive it once, so I could stop where I wanted. Next time I’ll take the free shuttle the park offers.

Above: the Weeping Wall.

There were both mountain goats and big horned sheep in the parking lot at Logan Pass.

In the campground at Apgar finally found out which bird it is with the distinctive song you often hear in the woods: a Swainson’s thrush. It has a “Song flute-like, spiraling upward”.

The campground has a nice paved bike/hike path that goes to West Glacier. You are not supposed to hike alone at Glacier because of bears. I road my bike on their beautiful bike path and, what do you know, I came across a bear (below). It just briefly glanced at me, being intent on looking for food. It was the color of a grizzly, but believe it was a black bear. All the bears I’ve seen at Glacier have seemed very healthy.

I had taken a point and shoot camera, so I wouldn’t have to take the larger DSLR. Have to learn how to use the darn thing.

They say that the glaciers in Glacier National Park will be gone in 10 to 20 years. The warmer weather they now have has brought more beetle damage to their trees, as evidenced by the many dead trees you see. Also, alpine areas that goats and other animals depend on, is expected to disappear.

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Glacier National Park

July 4th, 2010

Have been in the St. Mary area of Glacier National Park for almost two weeks (without hookups). It is really incredible, lots of waterfalls and wildflowers. Coming at the end of June this year, it seemed less crowded than last year. Part of this is due to roadwork on Going-to-the-Sun Road, where access over Logan Pass is closed at 9 p.m. There was very little traffic on the road at 7 p.m.. There is still snow at Logan Pass. People were using their skiing gear on my first visit there. The snow is melting fast though, creating waterfalls everywhere

The first two photos above were taken on the way to Logan Pass. The third one is from Many Glacier. It’s the first time I’ve visited that area. Wish I could stay at the campground there, but my rv is too long. The bottom picture is the Two Medicine area. You can see the variety of weather I had.

When stopped near Logan Pass waiting to drive through a one lane road where work was being done, saw the sheep in the top picture. On another visit the sheep in the bottom picture was in the Logan Pass parking lot. He was licking the pavement. Perhaps salt was there from snow removal. There were people all around him taking pictures and he was oblivious to them. It was just when some people let their two dogs out of their car that he looked up.

Sharp-tailed grouse

On one drive down Going-to-the-Sun Road passed people watching a black bear. Went back the next evening thinking it would probably return, and it did. This time park rangers were also on hand. The ranger above was going to shoot it with a rubber bullet and aim a firecracker over it’s head to scare it away, but I think the bear got away that night. I didn’t go back the next night.

A white tailed deer was grazing while keeping an eye on the bear. The bear eventually gave a half-hearted lunge towards the deer and it took off.

The large variety of wildflowers at the park is amazing. There are a mix of prairie and alpine flowers. Bear grass (beargrass?) is shown below in an area hit by fire in the past.

Wikipedia:

X. tenax is an important part of the fire ecology of regions where it is native. It has rhizomes which survive fire that clears dead and dying plant matter from the surface of the ground. The plant thrives with periodic burns and is often the first plant to sprout in a scorched area.

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Theodore Roosevelt National Park

June 20th, 2010

Visited the Theodore Roosevelt National Park in North Dakota for a week. Teddy Roosevelt came to my attention in the Ken Burns National Park series and also the book The Big Burn. He was the first president to see the need for conservation and created the first national parks and national wildlife refuges. He came to North Dakota to heal after his first wife and his mother both died on the same day (of different causes). It was here that he saw the damage people were doing to the land and the wildlife.

Above, view of the North Unit of the park. You drive through grasslands to suddenly come over a hill and see this. This unit is less crowded than the South Unit, which can be seen and accessed from the I-94. The North Unit is below the town of Williston, North Dakota. The state is in the midst of an oil boom and it is very apparent in Williston. What was probably a quiet farming community is now overrun with Mack trucks carrying supplies and equipment. You either get sprayed with dust and dirt or water (depending on the weather) every time one passes you on the two-lane road to the park.

When I first drove into the North Unit campground, buffalo were walking through it. It was warm and humid, and I later saw them on a sandbar on the Little Missouri River.

I have avoided going to North and South Dakota because of their weather. My visit confirmed my fears. The first night I was there a ranger came by and said there was a severe thunderstorm warning with possible tornadoes. A woman died in a tornado in northeast Montana, but I just saw a severe thunderstorm. The following day it was freezing with some rain, but warm, humid weather returned the next day.

A thrasher, spotted towhee, and northern flicker after the rain. The flicker was taking a bath in some water in a small pothole.

The first red-headed woodpecker that I’ve seen.

The South Unit of the park has a lot of black tailed prairie dogs. I was surprised to read in the park newsletter that it is a misconception that they destroy the landscape. “Without the prairie dogs, the prairie would change dramatically”. They aerate and fertilize the land and keep plants under control; they are a source of food for a number of carnivores; and their burrows provide protection for a number of creatures. Prairie dogs were in the west before it was settled (before us in other words). Lewis and Clark took a pair back to Washington. Guess I’m going to have to rethink my attitude towards ground squirrels and gophers.

When I moved on to the South Unit campground I had internet access and was able to see all the severe weather alerts for thunderstorms, wind, and damaging hail. Fortunately I was spared the damaging hail. Each night there were severe storms though.

There are wild horses in the South Unit. The ones above were enjoying the sun after a rainy night. The white one kept bobbing his head up and down. I’ve tried to see wild horses elsewhere, but these are the first I’ve encountered. I’m sure the park knows how much tourists love seeing them.

The day I took the above picture, the sky was cloudless most of the day and there were no weather alerts that morning. At 6 or 7 pm clouds could be seen on the horizon. At around 10:30 pm lightening started, along with buckets of rain. Looked at the weather web site and at 10:30 pm a severe weather alert had been posted. The weather people must have a hard time, trying to protect people and at the same time not scare away tourists.

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Bowdoin National Wildlife Refuge

June 13th, 2010

Visited the Bowdoin National Wildlife Refuge near Malta. The prairie areas on their 15-mile auto tour route are beautiful this time of year, a mix of grasses, wildflowers, and cactus on the verge of blooming. Above, female pronghorn elk with two young ones born in May. On driving through northeast Montana, have occasionally seen pronghorns. No large groups, just one or two on prairie or farmland.

A young marbled godwit. They initially don’t know what to do when they are on a road and a car approaches. They either don’t move and cry for help, or just walk slowly ahead of the car. They learn fast though.

Breeding American avocet

A young killdeer

Yellow warbler

Ring-necked pheasant

On the road near the refuge, saw these beautiful horses standing still as stone. Realized they were sleeping. Have never seen a group sleeping before. Must have had a hard day.

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